![]() Still, because of the interference with the print head, I lose about 4cm x 9cm of print bed real estate. Unfortunately, this setup still interferes with the print head:Īfter replacing two screws with slightly shorter ones, and flipping two others around, at least the y-axis is no longer a problem: Then I will finally rest 100% assured that nothing will catch fire. The piece of "super absorbent floor cloth" will be replaced with a piece of silicone matt as soon as that arrives in the mail. I have replaced the temporary connection with something a bit more permanent and pretty: Also the fixture is printed from PLA, so it would not fare well at 100% heating power. This is incompatible with my plans to put the printer in an enclosure in my shelf. The current connection takes up quite a bit of space. For now, a temporary fixture should make sure that the wires don't fail: I plan to implement a proper connector and strain relief for the resistive wires on the the back of the build plate. ![]() The adhesions with the first test print was very good. "Measure once, drill twice", that's how it goes, right? And who would have expected the switches to interfere with connectors on the mainboard? Anyway, this faux pas was easily fixed with the application of a label printer:įor PLA, a single wire loop is enough to heat the bed. On 100% power (all three loops active) it reaches almost 70 degC.Īt this point I decided to put a 4A fuse in the 19V line. On 33% power (one loop active), the platform reaches a temperature of 37 degC. I tapped into the 19V power supply on the bottom of the main board:įirst tests showed everything to be working. The final temperature will be determined by the equilibrium of heating by the wire and heat loss to the environment. Just like the commercially available heated bed, there will be no temperature control. This gives me four possible power settings: 0%, 33%, 66%, and 100%. One switch switches two wire loops in parallel, the other switches the remaining loop. I attached some ribbon cable and connected the loops to two switches I added to the front of the Cetus' electronics case: I laid out three separate loops of 26 AWG (0.40 mm) A1 kanthal wire, and covered everything with another layer of kapton tape:Įach loop has a resistance of between 25 ohm and 32 ohm. ![]() ![]() I then covered everything except the centre with kapton tape for insulation: I started by drawing some guide lines on the under side of the Cetus' build plate: The idea is quite simple: Stick some resistive wire under the build plate and tap into the 19V power supply of the Cetus to heat it up. ![]()
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